Fred Ley

It is strange that you can't achieve focus with your Sony A300 at prime focus. Are you perhaps overlooking something? I doubt it, but, if you are using a star diagonel somewhere, it will throw the focus futher back and may not allow you to achieve focus. -Fred

Hi Garvanit, Saw your posting and felt like adding my two cents worth too. Whether you purchase a variable tele-extender or a standard tele-extender, one thing that one needs to remember is that with the induced higher magnification, finding and centering the object that one wants to image can be trying if an instrument does not have fine slow motion controls. I was going to mention the standard tele-extender but noticed that you are not using a Schmidt Cassegrain system. After one inserts an eyepiece into the visual back and allows for the tube of the tele-extender to slide over it, the standard tele-extender then threads on to the visual back. I am certain that you are aware of this, but, don't forget to take into account that with the increase of magnification so to does the increase of any distortion in the atmosphere at the time of observation. It also appears that a Meade #64ST T-Adapter (Meade Product Number 07366) will be needed. It threads to the rear of the ETX-70 and one then threads on to it the appropriate T-Ring. Its use is addressed in your users manual. Don't forget to see how much weight is added to the system. One doesn't want to add to much strain on the system without using some form of counter weight. Hope this helps your quest somewhat. -Fred

Hi Stelios, Having the observatory should allow you to get a lot more use out of your equipment. Enjoy it. Fred

The star images in your image of M76 certainly nice and tight. Nice job. Fred

Watched it on the NASA channel, always impressive to watch the launches. Hope they hurry up and decide on a new program, they have the money. Of course it is a matter of priorities-but whose? Fred

Hi Michael497, If I fully understand your situation, you are not achieving focus with your camera on the focusing unit that you have. Is this occurring with or without the use of the coma corrector? Years ago, some Dobsonian manufacturers made their units only for visual viewing. I attached a 35mm film camera to the focuser in order to take a prime focus image of the Moon and I could not achieve focus. In regards to bringing the primary mirror forward, and closer to the secondary, you will slightly decrease the amount of light that is falling on the secondary. Some of the gathered light will spill over the edges of the secondary. If the manufacturer of your telescope offers a lower profile focuser, that would be a better route to go with. You can always sell the current focuser to off-set the cost of the replacement focuser. In addition, picking up a focuser for the manufacturer may also alieviate you from drilling new holes in the tube-providing that the focuser base has the same hole pattern. Hope this helps you out a bit. Fred

Observing, it's certainly and always a lot of fun.

Been at it for 41 years. -Fred

Here is a link to some photos taken at 37,000 feet by the pilot of a commercial airliner. These are unique photos, a once in a lifetime event. Link is... http://ireport.cnn.com/docs/DOC-608206?hpt=C2 -Fred

Hi, I have tried to create my account on the site and nothing happens. I have been entering Latin characters in the spaces where information is requested. When I complete all of my entries and click on the register button, nothing happens. Any ideas? -Fred

Hi, I am not familiar with the exact models of the three cameras that you own, but I can offer the following bits of information. You can start with by looking to see if the lens is removable. If not you will have to attempt taking photographs using the afocal method. If the lens is removable, you will need to pick up a T-ring for your particular brand of camera. It is a relatively inexpensive item. Secondly, you will need an adapter to fit between the T-ring and the focuser. Be forewarned that some cameras use their battery to hold open the shuttter during long exposures and this will drain the battery rather quickly. I have an older Canon TX that does not use the battery to hold the shutter open and thus allows me to make long exposures. The film camera that I prefer and use is the old Olympus OM1. It has a lockable flip mirror so that one does not get any vibrations from the tripping of the shutter on the negative. This is quite noticable on higher magnification photography. Also, one can change the focusing screen on the OM1 and make looking through the camera the same as looking through an eyepiece. Lastly, don't forget the cable release for the camera. Hope this helps you out somewhat. -Fred